Can you explain the goal of the medical initiative and why Lenin Peak is such a critical place for this work?

Lenin Peak (7134m), on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, has a reputation as the “easiest” of the 7000m mountains. That reputation draws hundreds of climbers each season. Yet, despite its popularity, the mountain has historically lacked a dedicated preventative search and rescue (PSAR) service. Tragically, in 2022, respected guide Vyacheslav Sheiko (“Slava Topol”) lost his life on Lenin Peak. In response, the Slava Topol Project (STP) was founded by David Wade and Stephen Taylor to improve safety and medical care on the mountain.

By 2025, the project established two medical clinics - one at Base Camp (3600m) and another at Advanced Base Camp (4300m). These clinics became the backbone of a new system designed to deliver preventative medical support, emergency care, and structured rescue capability on the mountain; a place where climbers can get preventative check-ups, emergency care if things go badly wrong, and support from a structured rescue team.

The ultimate goal is sustainability: to hand the project over to local healthcare providers and rescuers so it becomes part of the mountain’s long-term safety culture.

What kind of medical challenges do climbers usually face on the mountain?

Over the eight-week climbing season, the medical team recorded 124 consultations, reflecting the wide range of challenges climbers faced. At one end of the spectrum were frequent but relatively minor issues such as blisters, burns, and cuts. More concerning were altitude-related illnesses, with Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) the most common. In several cases, rapid ascents - with some climbers attempting Camp 3 (6100m) within only five days of arriving at Base Camp - led to severe and life-threatening High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). The clinics also treated frostbite and traumatic injuries resulting from the harsh environment and accidents on the mountain.

Beyond altitude-specific problems, general medical conditions were also seen, spanning gynaecological, paediatric, and psychiatric presentations. These often-required broad clinical expertise, supported remotely by an international network of medical professionals connected via satellite.

How did your role fit into the wider rescue and medical team?

Medical volunteers were organised into two teams of four, rotating between Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp for three to four weeks at a time. Daily responsibilities extended beyond running the clinics, providing emergency out-of-hours care, and supporting the mountain rescue volunteers.

Education was a central focus, with structured teaching sessions, handouts, posters, and countless informal conversations with climbers about acclimatisation, clothing, and mountain safety. Prevention also played a key role, as our teams worked to regularly inspect fixed ropes, ladders, and anchors, replacing equipment where melting snow and ice had weakened it. Collaboration was equally important, involving close partnership with local organisations such as the Kyrgyz Medical Institute and Rescue in the Mountains, while maintaining regular contact with the project’s medical director and wider expert group via satellite.

Can you walk us through a typical day on the expedition?

A typical day varied depending on whether the team was at Base Camp or Advanced Base Camp, but the rhythm was broadly similar. Mornings began with checks on the clinic - reviewing supplies, drugs, and equipment before opening for daily patient consultations, which included not only climbers but also mountain workers and their families. Medical emergencies frequently arose outside clinic hours, often when teams returned from higher on the mountain, requiring a quick response any time of day or night.

Alongside clinical work, volunteers maintained communications systems, radios, and satellite links. Education was another constant thread, with sessions for climbers and workers either delivered or prepared for later in the week. Volunteers also factored in acclimatisation hikes during their rotations, ensuring their own bodies were prepared for the move to Advanced Base Camp and, if required, for supporting rescues higher on the mountain.

Did you encounter any emergencies or rescues during the trip? What happened, and how did the team respond?

Several serious emergencies occurred during the season, testing both the medical and rescue systems. Cases of High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) were managed with oxygen, medication, and, in some instances, portable hyperbaric chambers before evacuation. Trauma and frostbite patients were stabilised at camp and, when necessary, transferred to lower altitude and onward to the Eldik Family Medical Clinic in Osh for definitive care.

The new mountain rescue capacity also proved vital, with stretchers, radios, and established evacuation plans actively used to move casualties across difficult terrain. Each incident highlighted the importance of a dedicated preventative search and rescue service, ensuring rapid response, effective stabilisation on-site, and safe transfer to appropriate medical facilities.

Did the altitude and cold affect your ability to work medically and physically?

Operating at 3600-4300m presents significant physiological challenges for anyone. Prolonged exposure to high altitude places additional strain on the body, contributing to fatigue and slower physical and cognitive recovery, even in otherwise healthy volunteers; a significant challenge for the volunteers.

Cold conditions added further difficulty, requiring careful management of pharmaceutical supplies and medical equipment. Despite these pressures, the support network - including satellite communication with medical experts, strong teamwork, and regular rotation between camps - ensured the clinics remained fully functional and effective throughout the season.

Reflecting on the Trip

The first season of the Slava Topol Project has shown that it is possible to create a functioning preventative search and rescue service on Lenin Peak. The combination of clinics, education, rescue infrastructure, and collaboration with local stakeholders proved vital. Looking ahead, the aim is for this project to become locally led, embedding a sustainable system that will continue to save lives and reduce risk on the mountain for years to come.

For the medical and rescue volunteers, working amongst one of the 7000m giants in the Pamir Mountain range of Kyrgyzstan offered a rare and intense opportunity to test their skills under extreme conditions, knowing that every decision, treatment, and rescue directly supported climbers on the mountain.